A Cold December Night in Kyoto
It’s a cold December evening in Kyoto. A few snowflakes fall from the sky as I leave my freshly arranged apartment in Higashiyama and start walking toward Gion. Even though I have a small bathtub in my apartment, I’m drawn to the nostalgic bathhouses—sento—which are still plentiful here in Kyoto. After about 10 minutes braving the icy night wind, I arrive at “Atarashi-yu.” I slip under the noren, the entrance curtain, take off my shoes, and enter the pleasantly warm building. The lady behind the counter looks at me with a hint of surprise, as the local bathhouses are mainly frequented by locals, but she greets me warmly with a “Konbanwa” (Good evening) and asks if I’m here alone. I confirm and pay 510 yen—the standard price for all sento in Kyoto.
The music playing is from the ’70s, and I can hear the sounds of water splashing, soft conversations, and quiet laughter. It’s an atmosphere where you can’t help but feel at ease. In the changing room, I put my clothes in a small wooden basket, store it in a locker along with my valuables, and head into the bathing area with just a towel and my washing supplies.
Warm steam envelops me as I enter, and I sit down on one of the small stools to wash myself thoroughly from head to toe. After rinsing off the soap—and with it, the worries of the day—I slip into one of the hot baths, letting the soothing water warm my tired limbs.
In today’s post, I want to talk about the topic of bathhouses in Japan. Many of you might be familiar with the term “onsen” or hot springs, but unfortunately, a lot of travelers aren’t really aware of what a sento is.
A Short History of Sento
The history of sento goes back to the 6th century, when Buddhist temples began to use hot springs for bathing. This was considered part of a spiritual purification ritual, and over time, these bathing facilities evolved into public bathhouses.
During the Edo period (1603–1868), sento experienced a boom. The rise of public baths was encouraged by the popularity of bathhouses in hot spring areas like Beppu and Hakone, as well as by the introduction of public baths in urban areas. During this period, sento became important social meeting points where people could relax, bathe, and chat.
In the Meiji era (1868–1912) and after, sento underwent modernization. The introduction of public water systems and improved sanitation facilities contributed to their development, and many sento became key social hubs in their communities.
After World War II, sento saw another surge in popularity, as many people lived in cramped apartments that often didn’t have their own bathrooms. Sento provided a place for personal hygiene, relaxation, and social interaction.
Although the number of sento in Japan has declined in recent decades, they remain an important part of Japanese culture. Many sento offer a traditional bathing experience with various baths, including hot spring baths (onsen), cold baths, and nowadays even saunas. They are places of relaxation and social gathering, appreciated by people of all ages.
Common Types of Baths in a Sento
Below is a list of the most common types of baths in a sento, along with a brief description. Some sento offer all of these baths, while others may only have the three most common: atsuyu, miyuburo, and sometimes kusuriyu.
Onsen (Hot Spring): Onsen are hot spring baths fed by natural geothermal sources. They are often a main feature in many sento, appreciated for their health benefits and relaxing effects.
Atsuyu (Hot Bath): Often, the atsuyu is simply a very hot bath (40–42°C) without added minerals. In some sento, the atsuyu is fed by natural hot springs, while in others, regular tap water is used.
Rotenburo (Outdoor Bath): Rotenburo are open-air baths, often surrounded by scenic landscapes. They offer a special bathing experience, allowing you to enjoy nature while relaxing in warm water.
Denkiburo (Electric Bath): A denkiburo (電気風呂) is a bath with a mild electric current running through the water, conducted at a safe level that won’t harm the body. These baths are mostly found in Japanese public bathhouses and are particularly common in the Kansai region.
Mizufuro (Cold Water Bath): Mizufuro are cold water baths used to cool the body after hot baths and stabilize circulation. This alternation between hot and cold baths, known as kuramae, refreshes and revitalizes and is considered an essential part of the full bathing experience.
Kusuriyu (Medicinal/Herbal Bath): Kusuriyu are baths enriched with medicinal ingredients or herbs, usually maintained at a temperature of 38–40°C. They offer specific health benefits, depending on the ingredients used.
Sansofuro (Oxygen Bath): Sansofuro are baths infused with oxygen to invigorate and refresh the body. The added oxygen promotes circulation and increases energy, resulting in a revitalizing effect.
Surrounded by the warmth of the water, I start to feel drowsy. It’s just the right time to get out of the bath. I climb out, dry myself with my small towel, wringing it out as I go. Back in the changing room, I have a quick chat with a couple of local ladies while I get dressed and dry my hair. Before leaving the bathhouse, I buy a coffee milk at the entrance. It’s just part of the experience.
I thank the lady at the front desk and head back to my apartment through the chilly winter night.
Thanks for Joining Me on This Little Journey
Thank you for joining me on this little journey into a Japanese sento. If you’re ever in Japan and have the chance to visit a sento, definitely do it! It’s a unique experience that can become quite addictive. If you have any questions about bathing in Japan, feel free to leave them in the comments. I’ll get back to you as soon as possible.
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